3. The rapid start ballast uses voltage across the two contacts on the end of each lamp to heat the filament which makes the lamp easier to start and increases lamp life, especially in applications that are frequently switched on and off. Electronic ballasts are the new guys on the block. Cut the wires close to the old ballast and remove the ballast. There were some fluorescent fixtures in my father's gas station that were over 40 years old and still working!! This photo compares a pair of old and new ballasts. The new one is electronic. Remove the old ballast and install the new one. Interesting article, thanks. Oh me too believe me, everything other than those two T8 fixtures have been changed to LED around my property. The ballast makes sure that the amount of current being provided to the lamp is not more than the specification of the light. Which I tied together the corresponding colors with no issues. Follow the diagram and connect the different colors to the connectors. The schematic isn't making sense to me and I have tried many different combinations of these wires, which succeeds to power only a single bulb at a time. The old ballast had 2 red, 2 blues and usual hot, neut and gnd. Make the cut close enough to the old ballast that the wires from the new ballast will easily reach the old wires. Works fine, I was thinking about the jumpering when I was first doing it, so I guess I had somewhat of a clue. When the switch is ON, the initial voltage across the lamp becomes 1000 V around due to high valued, hence gas discharge takes place instantaneously. A new fixture would likely be only about $10 more than the replacement ballast. Took old ballast to supply store and got the newer, smaller replacement ballast. The yellow wires are, for lack of a better description, are "shared"  so pin 1 of lamp 1 and pin 1 of lamp 2 go one yellow wire. 4) The lamps are brand new, and I did switch them. There are two black and two white wires coming out of the old ballast and 4 connectors on the new ballast, so the numbers are right. Hi, I am trying to replace the two-light ballast below. Second ballast (powerplant) untested, but has had some new capacitors fitted. Where as before, I put in multiple fixtures or larger fixtures in order to achieve high light output. A couple of distinctions with what I am dealing with: 1) there is no green wire coming out of the left of the ballast: just one black and one white. Some LED tubes want 120V on the opposite ends of the tube. Again, this process assumes that you have the right tools and parts (an exact ballast replacement and wire connectors), that you can safely reach the ballast you're replacing, and that you're comfortable doing this kind of work. The old ballast has two wires coming and going from . I replaced a 20-year-old ballast that died last week. The solution is as follows: First, turn off the power supply to the fixture. This is ideal for instant start lamps, but won't work for a program rapid start ballast. The other I just did, and it is working perfectly also. If you’re are new to the technology and are interested in using it to replace old incandescent bulbs or fluorescent lamps, you can use LED lights in your already existing fixtures. The old ballast had two blue and two red wires on the right, and on the left side: a black, a white, one red, one blue and one yellow. I am trying to replace an instant start ballast with a programmed start ballast, since it's a frequently switched fixture, and I'm tired of burning bulbs every two months. The new ballast has only two yellow wires. You can use this in your existing fixture. But, you will need to be proficient at reading the schematic that is on the new ballast. The new ballast and lampholder wire ends are stripped. Use orange wire connector for more than four 18 AWG wire connections. 3000 (halogen), 3500, 4100 (normal fluorescent), 5100, or 6500 (cloudy day). Sure. The other two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 2 and 3. Instead, a reactance is used. Novak cautions that on very old fixtures--those that are more than 20 or 30 years old--you may have a tough time finding a replacement ballast. Since we are going to be removing the ballast in the next step, you want to also cut all the wires from the ballast to the tube holders. If you’re using computer systems, gaming systems, large appliance, and even “smart home” components on a system that’s designed for much … Moreover, a ballast has a limited life and must be replaced after failure. The newer T-8 fixtures are more energy efficient, give more light and light faster. When changing a ballast, it is not feasible to disconnect and reconnect the wires from each lampholder. With the right type of LED replacement bulbs … Help your fellow Redditors crack the electrical code. Strip wires about 3/8 to ½ inch in length. Thank you very much. The old style ballast and its wire could have dated from the 1950's. Do you mind explaining how that worked? Still no luck. Without a ballast, a lamp or a bulb will rapidly increase its current draw and it can become uncontrollable as well. You get home and BOOM the thang has more wires than your old one. Since removed the timer from the circuit, hoping to rebuild the light without the built in timer. The new ballast (which is a 2 bulb T8, compatible with F25 bulbs) has 2 red, 2 blue and 2 yellows that I didn't have before. Old Ballast was 1 red - 1 blue - 1 black and 1. The advancements made with new ballast technologies save you money, push more light and maximize your yields in the long run. Lol. Stack Exchange Network. If a fluorescent tube blinks on and off-a slower and more distinct process than flickering-the fault may lie in loose wiring or in another component, called the ballast. The new ballast has one black wire, one white wire, two blue and one red. You do not need Your old cap may not work on the new motor because it may not be rated the same, the 2 brown wires go to that capacitor. New Ballast in my kitchen light $20.00 VS. a whole new light fixture $120.00....SAVED us $100 PLUS+. Replacing your T12 fixtures with T8 fixtures is more cost effective than changing out the ballasts, but if you invested a lot in your T12 fixtures and have developed a sentimental attachment, then you may want to invest in changing the ballasts and retaining the fixtures. Follow the wiring diagram that came with your new ballast. If needed, cut off excess length from the new wires ahead of time, but make sure they'll still easily reach and connect with the old wires. You get home and BOOM the thang has more wires than your old one. The new motor has several ways to connect common. Hi I have a old ballast with 6 wires, the new ballast has only 5 wires 1RED, 1Blk, 1Wht, at one end, on the other end 2blue. It has only two blue wires, two red wires, and two yellow wires. In your case you for sure made the right call. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. Pin 2 of lamp 1 and pin 2 of lamp 2 go to the other yellow wire. Do not panic. Ballasts that don't contain PCBs have the words "No PCBs" printed on them. what do I do with them. Differently than new electronic replacement ballasts, the existing ballasts have 1 blue lead and 1 red lead, and obviously a line and neutral. Ballast Bypass or AC Direct is a solution that doesn’t rely on the use of ballast as it has more disadvantages than advantages. I believe most residential wiring codes require the use of solid core insulated wire. I like a lot of light so lumens and color temperature are a big thing for me and LED has helped with that, since now I can get a brighter bulb with less consumption. I purchased a GE proline ballast replacement for a two lamp flourescent fixture, 48" each lamp. The incurred cost will preponderate over the preliminary financial savings by changeover to the ballast-compatible LED lamps for a large number of fixtures throughout a building. So, how to wire the new ballast to my fixture so it works? If you have the chops to change a ballast, you can handle this. That's where you only have holes to insert wire on one side of the socket. "Follow the colore-coded wiring diagram" was the recommendation, yet after connecting all like colors on the new ballast to the fixture, all I got was a delayed, dim light at the base of each fluorescent bulb. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. You didn't say anything about a ground wire coming of the ballast yet the diagram indicates there is one. Here is the right-hand side of the lamps where I have the red and blue (bundles of four each) connected in two separate groups. Cut all the wires connected to the fluorescent light ballast. If your fixture is old enough to have a "starter" you will follow the wiring digram in the new ballast and probably not use that. A 4 lamp fixture with two series ballasts can be replaced with a 4 lamp parallel ballast. If all is as it should be you'll take the blues to one socket, the reds to the other socket on the same end of the fixture, and the yellows to one socket on the other end. T8 ballasts are designed to … The schematic shows red, yel, blue. Each year, between 45,000 and 55,000 house fires occur in the United States due to faulty electrical work or old wiring. The fixture itself is a F25T8 with two bulbs. Here's an article on how to tell the difference. 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